26 Eylül 2018 Çarşamba

Amigurumi Ballerina Kitten - A Free Crochet Pattern



This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

I'm thrilled to share this pattern with you! This sweet little ballerina kitten is part of a new trio. She was designed with my youngest in mind, her birthday is next week and I wanted to make similar characters from her favorite book!

Head over here to learn more about the inspiration behind this trio and to find the patterns for the ballerina ostrich and mouse!


The ballerina kitten is made on a smaller scale than some of my other designs. She's 8 inches tall when in a seated position.

With her small size I have kept the body and head as one piece! Feel free to change up the colors to your liking! 

If you are new to crocheting stuffed animals, head over to my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page to get started. I go over a lot of the common techniques you'll see in the pattern, plus photos to help you through it! 

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook if you haven't already! You can share your work and ask any questions you have along the way! 




If you plan to make this for a little one under 3 I recommend these crochet eyes as an alternative to the plastic safety eyes! 

Pattern

- PIN this pattern to your favorite board to save for later! 

- Get an ad-free printable version on Etsy, includes all 3 patterns! 

- Add to your Ravelry queue! 

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern! 

Materials
  • Size 4 worsted weight yarn 
    • 75g medium gray (I used Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek in Dark Gray) 
    • 75g choice of color for outfit/bows/slippers 
    • Small amount of 
      • White 
      • Pink for nose 
  • 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • 12mm safety eyes
  • Crochet thread for eyelashes (optional) 
  • Scissors 
  • Tapestry needle (I love using the bent tip needles) 
  • Stuffing 
  • Stitch markers 
Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

DC- Double crochet

Ch – Chain

Sl st – Slip stitch

Rep - Repeat


*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. 

(For this pattern the body and head will be made as one piece.) 

Body

With outfit color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18) 

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Rounds 9-12: SC around (48)

Round 13: SC in the back loops only (48)

Rounds 14-15: SC around (48)

Round 16: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 17-18: SC around (42)

Round 19: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Rounds 20-21: SC around (36)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Rounds 23-24: SC around (30)

Round 25: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24) 

Change to gray

Rounds 26-27: SC around (24)

Round 28: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Rounds 29-30: SC around (18)

*We will now start the head*

Round 31: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 32: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 33: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 34: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 35: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 36: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54)

Rounds 37-44: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 41 and 42, 8 stitches apart. Place your eyes where you would like them and then remove to embroider your eyelashes before attaching the washer to the back. (This creates a little hole to help see where you want your eyelashes to go)

Nose- Using pink yarn place the nose one row beneath your eyes and two stitches in on each side (this will leave 4 stitches in the middle and this is what you will pass your yarn through to create the nose). Pass your thread through 3 times (or as many as you would like for a thinner or wider nose). Use your yarn to make a straight line down 3 rows.



Round 45: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 46: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 47: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 48: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 49: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 50: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 51: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Round 52: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Tutu

To work the tutu, have your kitten’s head towards you and body away from you (see pictures for example).

With color of choice create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 13 (For a cleaner look attach at the back of the body)





Round 1: Ch 2 (this does not count as your first stitch), 3DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144) Change to white (I carried my yarn as we will pick it back up for the last round, but fastening off works as well)

*Note – It is not necessary to count each stitch of the tutu, if a few are missed it will still have its nice ruffles

Round 2: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144) Change to color of choice

Round 3: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144)

Fasten off and weave in end

Ears 

Make 2

With gray

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC around (6)

Round 3: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 4: SC around (12)

Round 5: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Rounds 6-7: SC around (18)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

(To create a multi-colored ear, I completed one ear with white for the first 4 rounds and gray for the last 3 rounds)

Arms

Make 2

*Lightly stuff the bottom of the arms only*

With white

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, repeat around (15)

Rounds 4-5: SC around (15)

Round 6: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC, repeat around (10) 

Change to gray

Rounds 7-18: SC around (10)

At the end of round 18 pinch the arm flat and make 5 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Legs

Make 2 lightly stuffing the bottom half

With color of choice for slippers

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC around in the back loops only (24)

Round 6: SC around (24)

Round 7: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 6 stitches (18)

Round 8: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 3 stitches (12) Change to gray

Rounds 9-24: SC around (12)

At the end of round 24 pinch the leg flat and make 6 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.



Accessories

“Ribbons” for slippers – Make 2

With color of choice, make a chain until it reaches around the leg, crossing at the front. Tension and stuffing can vary from person to person and this number may be different for some. As a reference my chain was 26. Fasten off leaving about 6 inches to sew onto the slipper.

Bows for Slippers – Make 2

Working in a magic circle make 4 DCs, slip stitch, 4 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Headband

Make a chain long enough to reach around the head, my chain was 48, fasten off leaving a long tail to sew with.

Bow for headband

Working in a magic circle make 7 DCs, slip stitch, 7 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Dress Straps- Make 2

Chain 13

Row 1: SC in the 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across (12)

Row 2: Chain 1 and turn, SC in each chain across (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Assembly 

1. Sew the ears onto either side of the head, starting at the 4th round and ending at the 12th round

2. Next, sew on the headband and bow. I placed the headband where I wanted it and sewed it in place, I had enough remaining yarn from my tail to tie a bow at the back. 



3. Attach the arms onto the body at round 26, next sew each strap over the arms. I attached at round 24 on the front and back.

4. Attach the “ribbon” for the slippers to each leg. I attached to one side, wrapped around the back to the front to create an “x” and secured to the other side of the slipper. 


5. Sew each bow onto the outsides of the slippers. 



6. Sew the legs onto the bottom of the body, making sure to keep them centered with the facial features. 


Your ballerina kitten is complete! I hope you have enjoyed making this pattern. Let me know if you have any questions with this pattern or any of my other patterns, I would be happy to help. 

Thank you, 

Stephanie 


Amigurumi Ballerina Mouse - A Free Crochet Pattern





This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

I'm so excited to share this pattern with you! This kind little ballerina mouse is part of a new trio. She was designed with my youngest in mind, her birthday is next week and I wanted to make similar characters from her favorite book!

Head over here to learn more about the inspiration behind this trio and to find the patterns for the ballerina ostrich and kitten!



The ballerina mouse is made on a smaller scale than some of my other designs. She's 9 inches tall when in a seated position.

With her small size I have kept the body and head as one piece! Feel free to change up the colors to your liking!

If you are new to crocheting stuffed animals, head over to my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page to get started. I go over a lot of the common techniques you'll see in the pattern, plus photos to help you through it!

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook if you haven't already! You can share your work and ask any questions you have along the way!

If you plan to make this for a little one under 3 I recommend these crochet eyes as an alternative to the plastic safety eyes!

Pattern

- PIN this pattern to your favorite board to save for later!

- Get an ad-free printable version on Etsy, includes all 3 patterns! 

- Add to your Ravelry queue!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern! 

Materials
  • Size 4 worsted weight yarn 
    • 75g beige (I used Vanna’s Choice
    • 75g choice of color for outfit/bows/slippers 
    • Small amount of 
      • White 
      • Pink for nose and ears 
  • 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • 12mm safety eyes
  • Crochet thread for eyelashes (optional) 
  • Scissors 
  • Tapestry needle (I love using the bent tip needles) 
  • Stuffing 
  • Stitch markers 
Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

DC- Double crochet

Ch – Chain

Sl st – Slip stitch

Rep – Repeat

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. 

(For this pattern the body and head will be made as one piece.) 

Nose

With pink 

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC around (6) Change to beige

Round 3: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Rounds 4-5: SC around (12)

Round 6: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 7: SC around (18)

Round 8: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24 SC)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Body


With outfit color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Rounds 9-12: SC around (48)

Round 13: SC in the back loops only (48)

Rounds 14-15: SC around (48)

Round 16: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 17-18: SC around (42)

Round 19: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Rounds 20-21: SC around (36)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Rounds 23-24: SC around (30)

Round 25: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24) 


Change to beige

Rounds 26-27: SC around (24)

Round 28: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Rounds 29-30: SC around (18)

*We will now start the head*

Round 31: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 32: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 33: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 34: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 35: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 36: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54)

Rounds 37-44: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 41 and 42, 8 stitches apart. Place your eyes where you would like them and then remove to embroider your eyelashes before attaching the washer to the back. (This creates a little hole to help see where you want your eyelashes to go)

Sew the nose on evenly between the eyes, stuff lightly before closing.



Round 45: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 46: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 47: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 48: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 49: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 50: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 51: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Round 52: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Tutu

To work the tutu, have the head towards you and body away from you (see pictures for example).

With color of choice create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 13 (For a cleaner look attach at the back of the body.)




Round 1: Ch 2 (this does not count as your first stitch), 3DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144) Change to white (I carried my yarn as we will pick it back up for the last round, but fastening off works as well)

*Note – It is not necessary to count each stitch of the tutu, if a few are missed it will still have its nice ruffles

Round 2: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144) Change to color of choice

Round 3: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144)

Fasten off and weave in end

Ears

Make 2 front and 2 back pieces



Front – With pink 

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18) 


Change to beige

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing 


Back – With beige

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Sewing the ears together-

Place a front and back ear with wrong sides facing each other and sew together. Complete this step with the second ear.




Arms

Make 2

*Lightly stuff the bottom of the arms only*


With beige 

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, repeat around (15)

Rounds 4-5: SC around (15)

Round 6: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC, repeat around (10)

Rounds 7-18: SC around (10)

At the end of round 18 pinch the arm flat and make 5 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Legs

Make 2 stuffing lightly in the bottom half

With color of choice for slippers

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC around in the back loops only (24)

Round 6: SC around (24)

Round 7: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 6 stitches (18)

Round 8: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 3 stitches (12) Change to beige

Rounds 9-24: SC around (12)

At the end of round 24 pinch the leg flat and make 6 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Accessories


“Ribbons” for slippers – Make 2

With color of choice, make a chain until it reaches around the leg, crossing at the front. Tension and stuffing can vary from person to person and this number may be different for some. As a reference my chain was 26. Fasten off leaving about 6 inches to sew onto the slipper.

Bows for Slippers – Make 2

Working in a magic circle make 4 DCs, slip stitch, 4 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Headband

Make a chain long enough to fit around the head, my chain came to 48, fasten off leaving a long tail to sew with.

Bow for headband

Working in a magic circle make 7 DCs, slip stitch, 7 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Dress Straps - Make 2

Chain 13

Row 1: SC in the 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across (12)

Row 2: Chain 1 and turn, SC in each chain across (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Assembly 

1. Sew the ears onto either side of the head, starting at the 7th round and ending at the 10th round

2. Next, sew on the headband and bow. I placed the headband where I wanted it and sewed it in place, I had enough remaining yarn from my tail to tie a bow at the back. 





3. Attach the arms onto the body at round 26, next sew each strap over the arms. I attached at round 24 on the front and back.

4. Attach the “ribbon” for the slippers to each leg. I attached to one side, wrapped around the back to the front to create an “x” and secured to the other side of the slipper.

5. Sew each bow onto the outsides of the slippers.



6. Sew the legs onto the bottom of the body, making sure to keep them centered with the facial features.


Your ballerina mouse is complete! I hope you have enjoyed making this pattern. Let me know if you have any questions with this pattern or any of my other patterns, I would be happy to help. 


Thank you,

Stephanie


Amigurumi Ballerina Ostrich - A Free Crochet Pattern



This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!



It brings me joy to share this pattern with you! This shy little ballerina ostrich is part of a new trio, and I just love her! She was designed with my youngest in mind, her birthday is next week and I wanted to make similar characters from her favorite book!


Head over here to learn more about the inspiration behind this trio and to find the patterns for the ballerina kitten and mouse!




The ballerina ostrich is made on a smaller scale than some of my other designs. She's 10 inches tall when in a seated position.

With her small size I have kept the body and head as one piece! Feel free to change up the colors to your liking!

If you are new to crocheting stuffed animals, head over to my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page to get started. I go over a lot of the common techniques you'll see in the pattern, plus photos to help you through it!

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook if you haven't already! You can share your work and ask any questions you have along the way!

If you plan to make this for a little one under 3 I recommend these crochet eyes as an alternative to the plastic safety eyes!

Pattern

- PIN this pattern to your favorite board to save for later!

- Get an ad-free printable version on Etsy, includes all 3 patterns! 

- Add to your Ravelry queue!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern! 
Materials


  • Size 4 worsted weight yarn 
    • 75g light gray (I used Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek in Light Gray) 
    • 75g choice of color for outfit/bows/slippers 
    • Small amount of 
      • White 
      • Ivory for the legs and beak 
  • 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • 12mm safety eyes
  • Crochet thread for eyelashes (optional) 
  • Scissors 
  • Tapestry needle (I love using the bent tip needles) 
  • Stuffing 
  • Stitch markers 
Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

DC- Double crochet

Ch – Chain

Sl st – Slip stitch

Rep – Repeat

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. 


(For this pattern the body and head will be made as one piece.) 

Beak

With ivory

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Rounds 3-4: SC around (12)

Round 5: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 6: SC around (18)

Round 7: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24 SC)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Body

With outfit color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Rounds 9-12: SC around (48)

Round 13: SC in the back loops only (48)

Rounds 14-15: SC around (48)

Round 16: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 17-18: SC around (42)

Round 19: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Rounds 20-21: SC around (36)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Rounds 23-24: SC around (30)

Round 25: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24) Change to light gray

Rounds 26-27: SC around (24)

Round 28: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Rounds 29-38: SC around (18)

*We will now start the head*

Round 39: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 40: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 41: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 42: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 43: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 44: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54)

Rounds 45-52: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 49 and 50, 9 stitches apart. Place your eyes where you would like them and then remove to embroider your eyelashes before attaching the washer to the back. (This creates a little hole to help see where you want your eyelashes to go)

Sew the beak on evenly between the eyes, stuff lightly before closing.



Round 53: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 54: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 55: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 56: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 57: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 58: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 59: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Round 60: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Tutu

To work the tutu, have the head towards you and body away from you (see pictures for example).

With color of choice create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 13 (For a cleaner look attach at the back of the body)



Round 1: Ch 2 (this does not count as your first stitch), 3DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144) Change to white (I carried my yarn as we will pick it back up for the last round, but fastening off works as well)

*Note – It is not necessary to count each stitch of the tutu, if a few are missed it will still have its nice ruffles

Round 2: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144) Change to color of choice

Round 3: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (144)

Fasten off and weave in end

Wings

Make 2

*I left the wings unstuffed*

(Each wing is made with two “feathers” that we will join together.)

Small Feather: With light gray

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-4: SC around (12)

Fasten off

Large Feather:

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3-5: SC around (12)

Do not fasten off, here is where we will join the feathers and continue the wing.

Round 6: Attach to the first feather with a SC. SC around the first feather and then the second feather (24 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start, from here we will work the wing.

Rounds 7-10: SC around (24)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.



Legs


Make 2 stuffing lightly in the bottom half

With color of choice for slippers

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC around in the back loops only (24)

Round 6: SC around (24)

Round 7: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 6 stitches (18)

Round 8: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 3 stitches (12) Change to ivory

Rounds 9-24: SC around (12)

At the end of round 24 pinch the leg flat and make 6 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.



Accessories

“Ribbons” for slippers – Make 2

With color of choice, make a chain until it reaches around the leg, crossing at the front. Tension and stuffing can vary from person to person and this number may be different for some. As a reference my chain was 26. Fasten off leaving about 6 inches to sew onto the slipper.

Bows for Slippers – Make 2

Working in a magic circle make 4 DCs, slip stitch, 4 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Headband

Make a chain long enough to reach around the head, my chain was 48, fasten off leaving a long tail to sew with.

Bow for headband

Working in a magic circle make 7 DCs, slip stitch, 7 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with. 

Assembly 

1. Sew on the headband and bow. I placed the headband where I wanted it and sewed it in place, I had enough remaining yarn from my tail to tie a bow at the back.



2. Attach the wings onto the body starting at round 25 (near the top of her outfit) and ending at round 16 (right above the tutu). I placed the larger feather facing up.

3. Attach the “ribbon” for the slippers to each leg. I attached to one side, wrapped around the back to the front to create an “x” and secured to the other side of the slipper.

4. Sew each bow onto the outsides of the slippers.

5. Sew the legs onto the bottom of the body, making sure to keep them centered with the facial features.


Your ballerina ostrich is complete! I hope you have enjoyed making this pattern. Let me know if you have any questions with this pattern or any of my other patterns, I would be happy to help.

Thank you,


Stephanie



Amigurumi Ballerina Bunch - Free Crochet Patterns




This post may contain affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

Hi all! I'm so excited to share this group of crochet ballerinas with you! For those who don't know the back story on them, I'll fill you in. These were inspired by my youngest daughter's favorite book series, Mia the Ballerina Kitten.

If you're familiar with the books they have a lovely assortment of characters, ranging from an alligator, ostrich, flamingo, bears, a mouse and the list goes on. I loved the unique animals inside!

My youngest turns 4 next week and had asked for a ballerina party like her kitten. I immediately knew that I wanted to crochet something similar to the characters in her book. While, they may seem similar I had fun giving them all my own amigurumi style!

The hardest part was deciding what animals to have in the ballerina set, that's when I shared with all of you in the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook to help me decide.

If you haven't joined yet, head on over and check out the awesome projects others are working on, plus share yours and any questions you have, it's a fun community! 


The #1 votes were unanimous, you all wanted a ballerina ostrich! This is the vote that changed my entire design plan! I was excited and nervous at the same time. 

I first had planned in my head that the ballerinas would be standing and be somewhat similar to my Berry Patch Bunny pattern. Well, when ostrich was highly voted for in the group I wasn't sure that would work out! 

The best way I could think of it was to make them in a sitting position. I looked at Penn the Penguin and knew I was getting closer! 

I've also received a lot of great feedback about designing amigurumi on a smaller scale! I've kept these smaller than my average designs and made the body and head as one piece, you'll want to be sure stuff firmly to help keep the necks strong and sturdy! 

Each ballerina has cute little slippers with "ribbons" and bows! The colors combinations are endless with each animal, change the colors on the ostrich and you could have a flamingo (one of my testers did this and it turned out super cute!).

If you plan to make this for a little one under 3 I recommend these crochet eyes as an alternative to the plastic safety eyes! They also work great if you don't have the specified size on hand.

You may make and sell items made from these patterns but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Patterns 

PIN these patterns here to save them to your crochet board! 

If you prefer to work with an ad-free printable PDF you can purchase one here in my Etsy shop! 

Save these projects to your Ravelry queue here!

You can find each of the free patterns here on my blog:




If you are new to amigurumi check out my tips page here to walk you through the common techniques you'll see in most patterns, including these below! 

You will want to be familiar with making a magic circle (I've covered this in my tips page above but will go over it again here!). 

Magic Circle- 

A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi.

1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below.

2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail.

3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1

4. You're magic circle is now ready to start as your pattern instructs (ex: if round one says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop)

5. Pull your tail tight to close



You will also want to be familiar with invisible color change and invisible decreases. 

Invisible Color Join - 

When changing colors it can have a jagged look because we are working in continuous rounds. This method helps the colors change smoothly.

When you are completing the last stitch before you are instructed to change colors you will complete the first half of the stitch with your old color and finish the stitch with your new color.

Meaning, you will insert your hook into your stitch, yarn over with the old color and pull through, now drop your old color and use your new color to yarn over and finish the stitch by pulling through all loops on your hook.




Invisible Decrease- 

This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease.

An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the second stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook.

You've just made an invisible decrease!



I hope you have a blast making these sweet little ballerinas! If you make one, be sure to share it with me on Facebook, I'd love to see it!










Thanks for stopping by! 

6 Eylül 2018 Perşembe

Mini Amigurumi Pig - A Free Crochet Pattern




The second installment of the amigurumi minis are here! These sweet little piggies! After making the mini cows I had a hard time deciding which animal to make next. I noticed the farm theme needed to grow and thought these would be an adorable addition!

The legs, body and head are all made as one piece, just like the mini cow. The small size (7 inches tall) helps the neck to still stay strong so you shouldn't end up with a wobbly head. 

They even have a cute little curly tail! I added a bow similar to the one used for Emma the Fox to give the girl pig a little extra detail. 

If you'd like to make the larger version you can find the free pattern here!

If you are new to crocheting stuffed animals, head over to my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page to get started. I go over a lot of the common techniques you'll see in the pattern, plus photos to help you through it! 



Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook if you haven't already! You can share your work and ask any questions you have along the way! 

If you plan to make this for a little one under 3 I recommend these crochet eyes as an alternative to the plastic safety eyes! 

Pattern 

- PIN this pattern to your favorite board to save for later 

- Get an ad-free printable version on Etsy or Ravelry

- Grab the discounted bundle for the large and mini version here!

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn! 

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern! 


Materials


Abbreviations: US terminology

MC- Magic circle

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

DC- Double crochet

BLO - Back loops only

St(s)- Stitch(es)

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. The legs, body and head are made as one piece. 


Snout-

With dark pink

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in BLO (12 SC)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Legs -

Make 2 - Using dark pink

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the back loops only (12 SC)

Rounds 4-5: SC around (12 SC) Change to light pink

Rounds 6-12: SC around (12 SC)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 13)

*Round 13 joins the legs together and starts the body, we will not be making a chain to connect the legs.

Round 13: Attach to the first leg with a SC (I like to make sure both color changes are facing the same way, I make this the back of the mini pig). SC around the first leg and then the second leg (24 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start, from here we will work the body.



Rounds 14-20 SC around (24 SC)

Round 21: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18 SC)

Round 22: SC around (18 SC)

Round 23: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, repeat 
around (12 SC) 


Round 24: SC around (12 SC)

Here is where we will start the head

Round 25: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18 SC)

Round 26: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24 SC)

Round 27: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30 SC)

Round 28: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36 SC)

Rounds 29-33: SC around (36 SC)



NOTE: Here is where we will attach the facial features. Place the safety eyes 4 stitches apart between rounds 31-32. (For the girl version, I recommend sewing on the eyelashes before securing your safety eyes). Sew the snout centered between the eyes.



Round 34: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30 SC)

Round 35: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24 SC)

*Continue to stuff the head and neck firmly

Round 36: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18 SC)

Round 37: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12 SC)

Round 38: INV DEC around (6 SC)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Ears-

Make 2 of each
Inner Ear – With dark pink

Inside a magic circle, 3 SC, chain 3, 3 SC

Pull tight to close, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Outer Ear – With light pink

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC around (6 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (9 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (12 SC)

Round 5: SC around (12 SC)

At the end of round 5 pinch the ear flat and make 6 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the head.



Arms-


Make 2 stuffing lightly at the bottom

With dark pink

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (9 SC)

Round 3: SC in the back loops only (9 SC)

Round 4: SC around (9 SC) Change to light pink

Rounds 5-11: SC around (9 SC)

At the end of round 11 pinch the arm flat and make 4 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.



Tail –

Chain 6, 3 SC in the 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across (15 SC)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Bow –

Working in a magic circle make 4 DCs, slip stitch, 4 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Attaching everything together-

- Sew the arms onto the body centered with the head at round 23

- Sew the inner ear piece onto the outer piece, then sew onto the head starting at round 3 and ending at round 6 on each side



- If you are making the girl version, sew the bow onto the ear of your choice

- Lastly, sew the tail onto the back of the pig


You now have a cute mini pig (or should I say piglet)! Thanks so much for stopping by, I hope you had as much fun making this as I did! 

~Stephanie