Free Crochet Bunny Pattern

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

Meet the Mini Berry Patch Bunnies! They are a smaller version of this gal here, and this cute guy here!

This was a super fun CAL (crochet-a-long) that we worked on a few months ago and I wanted to rally up all parts together for an easy pattern read. You can now find the full free pattern as one here in this blog post!

With their small size (about 8 inches tall!) they're a fun way to use up some scrap yarn and they work up really fast!

When I was brainstorming these two I went looking for a yarn that resembled jean overalls. Lion Brand Jeans yarn was perfect! Plus, really soft to work with. I used Bermuda shorts for the shirt on the girl version and Faded for her overalls. On the boy version I used Stonewash.

I love the different colors they have available! I think I need to make another bunny with the Khaki color!

For this pattern the legs, head and body are made as one piece. We will make each leg separately and join together to start forming the body. There is minimal sewing involved here, yay!

In fact, the only pieces we will be sewing are the ears and arms! I have some helpful videos below to walk you through sewing, making the straps and joining the legs. You can view them in a right or left handed tutorial!

To make these bunnies we will be working in the round, meaning each round will not be joined. You will want to use a stitch marker to help keep track of which round you are working on. I like using a scrap piece of yarn, but a bobby pin or safety pin work great too!

I've also made these two in similar size to be included with the other mini patterns that are growing here on the blog. You can check them out below!

Mini Llama

Mini Pig

Mini Cow

If you're new to amigurumi be sure to check out our Tips to Learning Amigurumi page! It's packed full of mini photo tutorials to get you started!

Then, be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook! You can ask questions, share your work in progress, and engage with others who love the art of crochet!

If you'd like to be notified of new patterns, giveaway and tutorials as they're released sign up for our newsletter here!

Pattern

PIN here to save for later!

Get the ad-free PDF version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Materials Needed - 

• Size 4 worsted weight yarn (25g of main body color, 25g overall color, small amount for shirt and bow)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (these are my favorite hooks!)
• 9mm safety eyes
• Black crochet/embroidery thread for eyelashes, nose and mouth
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle (bent tips work great for amigurumi!)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Pins (optional)

Abbreviations: US terminology

MC- Magic circle

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC – Half double crochet

St(s)- Stitch(es)

Some notes before we begin:

1. Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. (Click here for some tips on stuffing!)

2. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

3. The legs, body and head will be made as one piece.

Here we go!

Legs - 

Make 2 – Starting with body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)

Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 5: SC around in the back loops only (24)

Round 6: SC around (24)

Round 7: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 6 sts (18)

Round 8: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 3 sts (12)

Change to overall color

Rounds 9-16: SC around (12)


Fasten off on the first leg only. When you finish the 2nd leg, make a SC into each of the next 5 stitches (do not fasten off). This will line up your working yarn to be in the center of the leg for our join as well as ensuring both feet will be facing forward.




Round 17: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC (make sure that both feet are facing forward). SC in the remaining sts around the leg. When you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining sts of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains again. You will have crocheted on each side of the chain. (30 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.





Rounds 18-23 SC around (30)

Change to shirt color

Round 24: SC around in the back loop only (30)

Rounds 25-27: SC around (30)

Round 28: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 29: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)

Change to body color

Round 30: SC around (18)

Round 31: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 32: SC around (12)

Here is where we will start the head

Round 33: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 34: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 35: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 36: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 37: SC in the first 11 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (39)

Rounds 38-42: SC around (39)

NOTE: Here is where we will attach the facial features. Place the safety eyes 5 stitches apart between rounds 40 and 41. (For the girl version, I recommend sewing on the eyelashes before securing your safety eyes).

Nose/Mouth: Using embroidery thread place the nose centered towards the bottom row of your eyes, 1 stitch in on each side (this will leave 3 stitches in the middle and this is what you will pass your thread through to create the nose). Pass your thread through 5-6 times (or as many as you would like for a thinner or wider nose). Use your thread to make a straight line down 2 rows and then a ‘V’ for the smile.





Round 43: SC in the first 11 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 44: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 45: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)

*Continue to stuff the head and neck firmly to avoid a wobbly head*

Round 46: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 47: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 48: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.


Ears- 

Make 2 - With body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 7 SC

Rounds 2-3: SC around (7)

Round 4: SC INC in each st around (14)

Rounds 5-9: SC around (14)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing, fold ear in half and sew across to close the ear as pictured.

Arms- 

Make 2 starting with body color (stuff lightly at the bottom)

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (9)

Rounds 3-5: SC around (9)

Change to shirt color
Rounds 6-11: SC around (9)

At the end of round 11 pinch the arm flat and make 4 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.


Bow – With color of choice

Working in a magic circle make 5 DCs, slip stitch, 5 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Attaching everything together-

(Note – We will sew our parts together and then make the bib and straps for the overalls.)

- First, sew the ears onto the head starting at the 4th round and ending around the 6th round. (Pictures for reference below.)

- Next, sew the arms on the body centered with the head at round 29.

- Lastly, for the girl version sew the bow onto the desired ear.

Overall Bib and Straps –

To make this last part we will be attaching and crocheting along some of the front loops from round 24. No sewing will be needed for this portion.

1. With overall color make a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 24. We will be using the center 8 stitches for our bib portion. I used the mouth to help me find the center and counted out a few stitches on each side to find my 8 middle stitches. (Picture 1)

2. Ch 1 and make 8 HDC across (one in each stitch for 8 stitches) (8)

Ch 1 and turn, we will now work across in rows. (Turning your bunny upside down or right side up with each row will help in easily reaching your stitches, find what’s comfortable for you.) (Picture 2)

3. HDC across, ch 1 and turn (8) (Picture 3)

4. HDC across (8) Once you complete this row, do not fasten off. Make a chain long enough to reach across the back to the opposite side (the straps will make an ‘x’ when complete) and slip stitch into a front loop from round 24. Our tension may be different, and the amount of chains needed to reach the other side may differ, for reference I chained 17. Fasten off and weave in your end. (Pictures 4 & 5)

5. Create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to the other (front) side of your bib. Make a chain with the same amount as the first and attach with a slip stitch to the back as before. Fasten off and weave in your ends. (Pictures 6, 7, & 8)

Your mini bunny is complete! I hope you have enjoyed making this pattern! Feel free to share a picture with us in the group, we'd love to see them!

Thank you so much for stopping by, 

Stephanie

Free Crochet Bee Pattern

Spring is here! And somehow Summer is just around the corner! This sweet little bee was inspired in part by this gal here and also by the large number of bees we've had hanging around our garden.

While I certainly keep my distance from the real ones, I have to say they are quite interesting to watch!

If you have been on the fence about amigurumi, this is a great pattern to start with. There are few pieces that require sewing and it's a great way to practice color changes, increases and decreases. You can also check out our tutorial page here to help get you started!

After stumbling on crochet stuffed animals a few years ago I haven't been able to stop! They are fun for all ages, decor, toys you name it! I also love that they are usually quick projects, I always have one (alright, more like 23) projects in mind to start as soon as I finish!

For this sweet bee the body and head will be made as one piece, this means one less part to sew on later! Easily adapt this pattern for a boy version by sewing the bow onto the neck as a bow tie!

I've used plastic safety eyes below, if you would prefer an alternative these are my favorites!

Pattern

PIN here to save to your crochet board!

Get the ad-free printer friendly version on Etsy or Ravelry!

Don't want to miss any patterns? Sign up for our newsletter, we'll keep you updated on new patterns, giveaways, and tutorials as they're released!

You can also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook! Connect with others who love to crochet, share your projects and ask any questions you have along the way!

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Materials-

• Size 4 worsted weight yarn (50g yellow [I used Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek in Pale Yellow], 25g black, small amount of white for the wings, and pink for cheeks/bow)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (These are my favorite hooks to work with!)
• 12mm safety eyes
• Crochet thread for eyelashes/smile
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle (The bent tips work great for amigurumi!)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Pins (optional)

Abbreviations - US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

Rep – Repeat

St(s) – Stitch(es)

This crochet bee measures approximately 9.5 inches tall. I recommend to slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

(For this pattern the body and head will be made as one piece.)

Nose- Before beginning cut a strand of yellow yarn approximately 10 inches long. We will use this for the nose.


Body-

With black

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Rounds 9-10: SC around (48)

Change to yellow

Rounds 11-14: SC around (48)

Change to black
Round 15-17: SC around (48)

Change to yellow

Round 18: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Rounds 19-20: SC around (42)

Round 21: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Change to black

Rounds 22-23: SC around (36)

Round 24: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Change to yellow

Rounds 25-26: SC around (30)

Round 27: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 28: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

*We will now start the head*

Round 29: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 30: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 31: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 32: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 33: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 34: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54)

Rounds 35-42: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 39 and 40, 7 stitches apart. Optional: Place your eyes where you would like them and then remove to embroider your eyelashes before attaching the washer to the back. (This creates a little hole to help see where you want your eyelashes to go).



Nose - With your long strand of yellow yarn, place the nose one row beneath your eyes and two stitches in on each side (this will leave 3 stitches in the middle and this is what you will pass your yarn through to create the nose). Pass through 3-4 times (or as many as you would like for a thinner or wider nose).



Smile – With crochet thread create a ‘V’ for your smile. I started mine 3 rows below the nose and create the ‘V’ to come up one row and out one stitch on each side of the nose. Picture below for reference.



Cheeks – With pink yarn create the cheeks by passing through 2 stitches on either side of your smile. I placed mine just below the eyes on the same row as the top of the smile.





Round 43: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 44: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 45: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 46: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 47: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)

*Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 48: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 49: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Round 50: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.

Antennae – Make 2

With black yarn

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Rounds 4-6: SC around (18)

Round 7: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Round 8: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (10)

Rounds 9-12: SC around (10)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing and fill lightly with stuffing.


Wings – Make 2

With white yarn

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30)

Round 9: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)

Rounds 10-11: SC around (24)

Round 12: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Rounds 13-14: SC around (18)

Round 15: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Rounds 16-17: SC around (12)


Pinch flat and make 6 SC across the top, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Note: I did not stuff my wings.





Bow –

With color of choice and working in a magic circle, make 7 DC, slip stitch, 7 DC, and slip stitch again. Pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Assembly –

Optional: Use pins to hold each piece in place before sewing.

1. Sew each antenna starting about the 3rd round and ending at the 6th round. Add a small amount of stuffing just before closing.

2. Next, sew the wings onto the back of your bee. Depending on your preference you can have them straight across as pictured below or at an angle. I sewed mine along the pins in the picture below as well as about a ½ inch in on each side of the top and bottom of the wings to add a little extra strength.

3. Lastly, sew your bow onto the antenna of your choice or for a boy version attach at the neck for a bow tie.

Your bumblebee is complete! I hope you have enjoyed making this pattern and would love to see your creation! Feel free to share in the group or tag me on social media!

Thanks so much for stopping by! If you're looking for more Spring inspiration check out our latest free crochet link party, One More Row! New patterns are added by various designers around the web so be sure to check back often!

One More Row - Crochet Link Party #6

Another round of One More Row is here and this week's features are full of some beautiful gift ideas! 

Below is the round up of the Top 5 most clicked patterns from last week's party! Be sure to check them out by clicking the name of each pattern in the list below!

What is One More Row?

One More Row is a free crochet pattern link party hosted here on Grace and Yarn and on Loops and Love Crochet! On the first TUESDAY of each month we will be sharing the top 5 clicked free crochet patterns from the previous link party!

It's a fun place to share your own crochet designs and to find new projects from other designers! We hope you will join in the fun by sharing your free crochet patterns and voting on your favorites. You may even find your next crochet project!

We are so excited to share the top 5 patterns from each party, plus see what new patterns will be shared in this next round. With Spring in full bloom this lineup is filled with colorful patterns to warm up your day!

PIN here to save to your crochet board!

1. Seeing Spirals Crochet Face Scrubby Pattern by Winding Road Crochet

Just in time for Mother's Day, this quick and easy pattern from Winding Road Crochet is perfect! Plus, she's included an adorable printable label to wrap your gift in!

2. Crochet Ragdoll Jellyfish by Yarnhild

Such sweet little tentacles! I love this ragdoll style amigurumi pattern that Ragnhild has shared with us!




3. Bloom Crochet Pillow Cover by Briana K Designs

I'm seeing more and more tapestry crochet patterns and they never cease to amaze me! Briana has a beautiful design here that would be perfect as a gift or even a project to make for yourself. I love the different color possibilities here!

4. Vegetable Market Bag by Winding Road Crochet

The little carrots crocheted into this market bag are just too cute! Lindsey has even included a video tutorial on how to make the carrot stitch!




5. Bunny Keychain from Modesty by Laura

How sweet is this little bunny keychain?! I love the sweet little expression and pink nose!

For more amazing free patterns, keep scrolling down to see the new patterns submitted in this week’s link party! Be sure to check back often as new patterns will be added throughout the week!

How do you join in on the fun?

If you're a designer, share your designs by submitting links to your FREE crochet patterns (limit of 3 per party) below. Support other designers and bloggers by visiting at least one other link - your clicks are how the top 5 patterns are determined for each party. This is a great way to get your patterns "out there" and support others.

Not a designer? That's ok, this party is for you too! Have fun clicking on your favorite links below, this is how you can vote for the top patterns that will be featured in the next party. Plus, it's a great way to see new patterns from all over the web.

Every other Tuesday we will feature the top 5 most clicked patterns in the next link party, as well as on our social media pages. Plus, a new link party will be started!

New links will be added daily, so be sure to check back often to see the awesome patterns being shared!

Meet Your Hosts!

This party is hosted by Amanda of Loops and Love Crochet and myself (Stephanie) of Grace and Yarn!

We’d love it if you would follow us on one or more of our social media accounts!

Loops and Love Crochet | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest

Grace and Yarn | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest

Check out what's new on our blogs below!

Zig Zag Zipper Bag - A Tapestry Crochet Pattern from Loops and Love Crochet





Tips for Stuffing Amigurumi from Grace and Yarn

Rules To The Party

Yes, every party needs rules, but we'll keep them short and sweet!

1. All patterns submitted by you MUST be your own work. Only add direct URLs to your pattern. No links to your homepage, Etsy store, Facebook page etc. If you're pattern is featured in the top 5, please do not submit the same pattern to future parties.

2. By leaving your link below you are giving permission to the hosts to use your photo (and reference to your link) on our blog and in our social media platforms.

3. Please visit at least one other link. Every time you click on another link shared in this party, your click counts as a vote for that pattern. So support other designers and bloggers and visit your favorite links! You may even find your next crochet project.

4. By sharing your link below, you are providing Link Party Animal with voluntary personal information. To see how your information is used you can view their Privacy Policy here.


Are you ready to add your link and join the party?

Click “Add New Link” below, insert the URL of your pattern, add a caption, and then submit! It’s just that easy! Plus, have fun visiting your favorite patterns!

Note: The links below are organized randomly and not according to date submitted or number of votes!

This link party is powered by Link Party Animal

Tips for Stuffing Amigurumi

Let's talk about stuffing!

We've all seen the instructions (I have them in each of my patterns), "slowly stuff as you go". What does that mean exactly?

In this post I want to share some helpful tips for stuffing amigurumi, plus a step-by-step guide to avoid lumps in your work. Over time all stuffing will settle a little, especially as our little ones squeeze and play, so we'll be talking a lot about firmness.

When I first started amigurumi I was more frustrated with stuffing than I was sewing. My main mistake was under stuffing. To be honest though, I was the only one who noticed, my girls still loved them!

Below I've shared my all time favorite type of stuffing, I feel it truly helps in avoiding lumps, staying firm over time and it's super soft on the hands to work with.

I'll also go over tips for each body part that you'll likely come across in amigurumi. I don't feel there is only one way to stuff, that's one of my favorite things about amigurumi, many ways to achieve the same product. I have shared below some of my favorite tips and what I have found works well for me, I hope you find it helpful too!

If you're new to amigurumi be sure to also check out our Tips to Learning Amigurumi page, we'll walk you through the basics and get you started!

This post contains affiliate links, please see our disclosure for more information. Thanks for supporting Grace and Yarn!

PIN here to save for your next project!

Materials for  Stuffing

Poly-Fil

This is a super popular stuffing! It is inexpensive and easy to find at almost any craft store!

For Poly-Fil to work at its best you will want to pull out a handful at a time and pull it apart to fluff it up before using it to fill your amigurumi. This will help in avoiding lumps.

Poly-Fil also comes with a long stick that can come in handy to push stuffing to the outer edges in smaller parts, example for the arms or tails.

Morning Glory Cluster Stuff

Morning Glory Cluster Stuff is my favorite to work with! I wish I had used it sooner to be honest. I was deterred because of its cost, but once I tried it I had to keep using it!

The little clusters are very soft, they don't need to be pulled apart and fluffed up. They also compact quite nicely without causing lumps. Over time, I find they keep their firmness very well!

Because I make amigurumi quite often I buy it in bulk now, I can usually find it at WalMart.com (usually on sale too!) and it comes in a pretty big box with 3 huge bags of stuffing. We're talking 11.25 lbs!

If you have a place to store them, this is the cheapest I have found it. It ends up being about the same price as Poly-Fil!

You can also find their 16oz bags at Hobby Lobby (don't forget to use their 40% off coupon when you go!).


These are the main materials that are available in my area and that I have the most experience with. If you have access to other materials feel free to give it a try on a smaller project and see what you think. Leave a comment below as well as to what your favorite material is, it just might help someone new to amigurumi find their favorite!

We've covered what to stuff with, now let's start talking about how to stuff!


Using Your Tension To Help

In general terms I like to put in small handfuls at a time. I can always add more as I go to reach the firmness I need.

The best way to avoid lumps or stretched stitches is to have your stitches tight as you crochet. You can achieve this best with the right size hook!

Make a practice piece (a leg or arm) and if you can see the stuffing through the stitches or they seem too loose go down a hook size until you feel they are nice and tight. You will be much happier with your end product if you do this first as this makes for a stronger 'wall' to fill with stuffing.

If you are having trouble getting your hook into the stitches because they are too tight you'll want to go up a hook size until you are happy with the tension. We want your hands to be happy too!

Once you find your favorite size hook for amigurumi you can use it in most patterns even if the designer has called for a slightly difference size hook.

Be sure to pay close attention if they use two different sizes throughout the pattern you may want to accommodate for this so that your proportions are the same.

Example: In some of my patterns I use 3.5mm hook and 5.5mm hook in the same pattern. If you have gone up a half size use a 4mm hook and a 6mm hook, you're proportions will be the same.

(If you do use a different size hook than what is called for keep in mind that your end product will be slightly larger or smaller.)

Breaking It Down Part By Part

If you'd like a step-by-step walk through, this next part is for you. We'll go over each body part and some helpful tips for smooth stuffing!

When a pattern states to slowly stuff as you go, the main message coming across is to share that it's easier to stop and stuff as you crochet. Waiting until you are done with your legs and body might make it hard to get the stuffing all the way down to each part.

Below I'll also share where I like to stop and add stuffing as I work through a pattern!

Feet

If your amigurumi has a defined foot (example in the foot of this pattern) you will want to stuff it extra firm. By this I mean to have the foot a little bit more firm than the leg. This helps to keep the stuffing pushed down into the foot and show the shape.

I usually stuff the foot when I am halfway done with crocheting the leg.

Legs

These can be stuffed a few different ways. If you are working on a pattern that has the legs joined together and then forms the body, you will want your legs stuffed firmly.

I like to have my legs lightly stuffed as I join them (makes the join easier) and then halfway through making the body (just before we start to decrease) I will go back and add more stuffing to each leg to firm them up.

If your pattern is in a sitting position (legs are sewn onto the body) your stuffing method may be different depending on your liking. I like to stuff the feet extra firm and will either stuff the legs lightly or not at all. This helps the body to sit on the legs and stay in the sitting position with ease.

Body

As in the example above, if you are working on a pattern that has the legs and body as one you will want to continue to carefully place more stuffing down into the leg joints. They usually take more stuffing than we think. Keep watch on your stitches to make sure they don't become stretched.

When stuffing the body it works best to place a handful or so (depending on the size) inside before your start your decreases. If you have it stuffed too full before decreasing you will be fighting to push against it and this can cause your decreases to have gaps or holes.

Since the body is a bigger cavity to fill I like to make a hole or well in the center and push my stuffing to the outside. As you add more stuffing at the end of your decreases, continue to place it in the middle and push towards the sides until you have the consistency you want.

Neck

One of the hardest parts to stuff is the neck, we want it strong and firm at the same time but no stuffing showing through! In my patterns I try to keep the base of the neck slightly wider, this along with tight stitches really helps to keep a strong neck and avoid a wobbly head.

If your project has the body and head as one piece treat the neck joint like the leg joint. It will take more stuffing than you might realize. As you stuff the head push a little more into the neck until you have it extra firm. Having the body (shoulder area) extra firm will help keep the neck stuffing from settling too far down into the body as well.

If your project has your head sewn onto the neck instead, you will want to add stuffing as you go. Make sure the top of your body (shoulder area) is firmly stuffed and start sewing your head onto the body.

Once you are halfway done add a little more stuffing being sure to shape the shoulder area as you'd like. Just before closing continue to add stuffing until you feel it is full. Using the end of your crochet hook can help.

Head

I treat the head similar to the body. It's a big cavity to fill and usually takes a surprising amount of stuffing. When I have made a few rounds of decreases I will put a large handful inside.

Too much will make it hard to continue decreasing smoothly. When I am down to 12 stitches in a round I will stop decreasing and add the bulk of my stuffing. Like the body, create a well and push the stuffing to the outside.

Once you have it fairly firm make your decrease to 6 stitches and then continue stuffing with the end of your crochet hook until you feel it is full. I love how we can stuff up until the last round!

Nose

Placing a little bit of stuffing into your nose helps hold its shape for you to pin in place where you would like it.

Like the head, add a little extra stuffing halfway through sewing and again just before closing until you have the firmness you're looking for.

Arms

Arms can be based on your preference. Unlike the legs or body they're not used for structural strength.

Plus, they're closed off and the stuffing you place in will stay put. With legs and body as one the stuffing can settle down which is why we stuff them extra firm.

I usually stuff the bottom of my arms but leave the top lightly stuffed or not at all. This lets the arms hang nicely at the side. But again, this is completely your preference. Feel free to play around the amount of stuffing to see what you like best!

Tails

Tails can be similar to the arms. If they are long, you can stuff them lightly as you crochet or at the end using the end of your hook or pencil to reach the tip.

The amount you use is optional depending if you want your tail to be limp and movable (light stuffing) or firm and stable (firm stuffing).

If you have a short tail use the tips from the nose above, slowly stuffing as you sew.

I hope you found these tips helpful! Do you have any favorite tips for stuffing that we left out? Leave a comment below to share!

If you'd like a quick and easy pattern to try out your stuffing skills check out these mini sized amigurumi patterns!

Thanks so much for stopping by!

Mini Amigurumi Horse and Donkey - A Free Crochet Pattern

How is it May already?! This year is going by so fast! I'm trying to slow down and enjoy each season and the different blessings they bring. This season? Beautiful warm weather, gardens starting, flowers blooming! I love it!

It brings me to the question....do you crochet year round or seasonally? For the past few years I have crocheted year round but I do feel I change to a night time crafter during these warmer months!

Today I'm super excited to share we are adding a mini version of our larger horse and donkey pattern! They are just as spunky and full of personality at half the size!

By changing the colors you could also have a super cute zebra or even add a horn for a unicorn. I love watching the personality of amaigurumi come together. 

If you've missed any of the other mini animals here on the blog, you can find them all below:

Mini Cow

Mini Llama

Mini Pig

Mini Berry Patch Bunnies

For this pattern you will want to be familiar with making a magic circle, invisible decreases and color changes (although there are only a few!). If these are new methods to you, a mini tutorial for each can be found on the Tips to Learning Amigurumi page, complete with helpful photos along the way!

Be sure to also check out the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. Share your WIPs, ask questions and engage with others who love to crochet!

If you'd like to be notified when new patterns are released you can sign-up for my newsletter here! I'll keep you updated on new patterns, giveaways and tutorials as they're posted!

I've used plastic safety eyes for this pattern, if you would like to use an alternative these are my favorites!

Pattern

PIN to save here!

Get the ad-free printer friendly version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop!

Or grab the bundle of both the large and mini size patterns here!

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Materials

• Size 4 worsted weight yarn (50g of main body color, small amount of white and choice color for accent [hooves and mane], and bandana)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook
• 4.5 mm crochet hook (these are my all time favorites!)
• 9mm safety eyes
• Black crochet/embroidery thread for eyelashes (optional)
• Scissors 
• Tapestry needle (bent tip needles work wonders for amigurumi!)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers (a piece of scrap yarn or bobby pin gets the job done!)

Abbreviations - US terminology

MC- Magic circle

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

St(s)- Stitch(es)

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. For this pattern the legs, body and head are made as one piece. You will be using your 3.5mm hook for all pieces apart from the bandana where we will use size 4.5mm.

Nose-

With body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)

Rounds 3-5: SC around (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With a small amount of your accent color, add two nostrils by passing once or twice through 1 stitch. I made mine about 2 stitches apart just above the middle point.

Legs - Make 2 

Starting with your accent color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)

Rounds 3-5: SC around (12)

Change to white

Rounds 6-7: SC around (12)

Change to body color
Rounds 8-12: SC around (12)

Fasten off on the first leg only. When you finish the 2nd leg proceed to round 13 to join the legs and start the body.

Round 13: Attach to the first leg with a SC (I like to make sure both color changes are facing the same way, I make this the back of the horse or donkey). SC around the first leg and then the second leg (24 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start, from here we will work the body.




Rounds 14-20 SC around (24)

Round 21: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 22: SC around (18)

Round 23: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 24: SC around (12)

Here is where we will start the head

Round 25: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 26: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 27: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 28: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36)

Rounds 29-33: SC around (36)

NOTE: Here is where we will attach the facial features. Place the safety eyes 4 stitches apart between rounds 31-32. (For the girl version, I recommend sewing on the eyelashes before securing your safety eyes).

Lastly, sew the nose centered between the eyes, adding a little bit of stuffing as you go.



Round 34: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 35: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)

*Continue to stuff the head and neck firmly

Round 36: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 37: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 38: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.



Ears- 

Make 2 with body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 7 SC

Rounds 2-3: SC around (7)

Round 4: SC INC in each st (14)

Rounds 5-6: SC around (14)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 sts, INC DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the head.

Arms- 

Make 2 stuffing lightly at the bottom. We will start with our accent color.

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (9)

Round 3: SC around (9)

Change to white

Rounds 4-5: SC around (9)

Change to body color

Rounds 6-11: SC around (9)

At the end of round 11 pinch the arm flat and make 4 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.



Bandana –
With your 4.5mm hook and color of choice, chain 9

Row 1: HDC in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain across, chain 1 and turn (8)

Row 2: HDC DEC, 4 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (6)

Row 3: HDC DEC, 2 HDC, HDC DEC, chain 1 and turn (4)

Row 4: HDC DEC twice, chain 1 and turn (2)

Row 5: HDC DEC (1)

Do not fasten off, continue with the border below.

Border-

1. Chain 1 and SC down the side.

2. When you reach the first corner chain 15 (if you crochet tightly you may want to add a few extra chains).

3. SC in the 2nd chain from your hook and back down the chain. SC across the bottom of the bandana.

4. When you reach the next corner chain 15 again (if you added chains above be sure to make this side with the same count). SC in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain back to the bandana. SC across the last remaining side. At this point you will have crocheted across all 3 sides and have created 2 ties on either side. Lastly, weave in your ends.





Attaching everything together-

- Sew the ears onto the head starting at round 3 and ending at round 6 on each side.

- Sew the arms onto the body centered with the head at round 23.

- Lastly, tie your bandana around the neck. We’ll finish our horse and donkey by adding the mane and tail below.

Mane –

With your accent color cut multiple strips of yarn approximately 7 inches long for the horse and 6 inches for the donkey. You will need quite a few to fill in the mane.

• Taking 1 strand at a time (feel free to use 2 strands for a thicker mane) and using your crochet hook, pull the strands through a stitch next to one of the ears to create a loop (picture 1).
• Next, pull your ends through the loop (picture 2) and pull tight (picture 3).
• Complete this step across the head to the other ear (picture 4).

Continue these steps to create extra rows working down the back of the head.

Donkey – Trim your mane to be approximately 2 inches long.

Horse – Trim as needed/ to your liking.

Tail –

With your accent color, cut 4 strips of yarn approximately 6 inches long. In similar fashion to our mane pull the loops of your strands through two stitches in the back of your horse/donkey. Pull the strand through your loop and pull tight. Trim your tail as desired, I kept mine about 2 inches long.

Your mini horse and donkey are complete! I hope you have enjoyed making this pattern. Let me know if you have any questions with this pattern or any of my other patterns, I would be happy to help. If you've made a mini horse or donkey feel free to share a picture with us in the group, we'd love to see them!

Thanks so much for stopping by,

Stephanie